Today I learned that “Hey,
want to grab lunch” actually means “Let’s go hiking.” Am I crazy or is there no
real link between those things? Needless to say, anticipating a quick
walk/drive to a restaurant or food stall for lunch, I dressed appropriately in
my only pair of jeans, a t-shirt and flats. Casual lunch clothes. Not hiking
clothes. So imagine my surprise when the car left downtown, where most of the
food is, and passed the city limits, passed the water park (We have a water
park! Who knew?) and after miles of desert, snaked up into the Atlas mountains,
to a little (unfortunately well known to the tourist industry) town named
Ourika.
Ourika is a “relatively
unspoiled” Berber village built on the banks of the Ourika river which, as you
can see, is low enough to walk across in the summer, but rises quickly during
the rainy winter (in fact, several residents were killed and a few houses were
destroyed in Ourika in the same unseasonably heavy rain that flooded my
apartment a few weeks ago). So every 100 meters there’s a bridge you can cross
to get to the other side, which are generally made of scraps of wood held
together by twine. This is by far the most stable bridge we found and it still
jiggled too much for my taste.
In all fairness, we
did eventually have lunch, at an adorably brightly coloured table along the
river. But first we enjoyed fresh mint tea (which must have some kind
of addictive property because I cannot get enough of it) and fresh walnuts,
with our feet dipped in the sub-zero temperature water of the surprisingly fast
moving river. I stalled for as long as I could, racing walnut shells down the
river and playing with the increasingly wet and frantic dog, until eventually
it could wait no longer. We were to hike to a waterfall, and I was to do it in
my work shoes.
Personally, I feel
that “hike” isn’t really an appropriate verb to describe what we did, “scramble
frantically up enormous, incredibly slippery boulders while being constantly harassed
by people selling tourist crap” seems more accurate. However, the scenery was
beautiful, the air was clean and it was lovely to be out of the city for a
while. It got easier when I made the executive decision to take off my shoes
and do the scrambling barefoot. Although it did result in a couple of
potentially questionable scraps on the bottom of my feet, it was vastly
superior to smashing open my skull slipping off a rock, as I was bound to do
with my shoes on.
Eventually we got to the first waterfall (apparently there are 7, but we’ll visit those another time, when I’m a little more prepared), which was both beautiful and breathtakingly cold (snow melt).While eventually enjoyable,
this pretty accurately depicts my feelings about the spontaneous hike,
essentially “Why the hell are you doing this to me?”
After a celebratory
coke and some unnecessary splashing, I made the executive decision to descend
the mountain food-wards, in an attempt that can not exactly be called graceful.
Despite a couple of almost fatal slips and some high pitched girly shrieking
that seemed to be coming from me, we made it back down to the restaurant in
more or less one piece and enjoyed some piping hot tajine and thoroughly addictive
tea over a rousing discussion of gender roles (which rendered me nearly
catatonic with rage).
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