Sunday, 22 December 2013

Quoth the Turkey

The story of how I made my first ever Thanksgiving dinner at/for Café du Livre (the best little restaurant in Marrakech) on about 10 hours notice. Certainly stressful and a little accident prone but the most fun I’ve had in a very long time.

Many thanks to Kenny and Sheryl for running around all day looking for supplies, to Youness and the Café du Livre staff for hosting and putting up with my presence in their kitchen and to Eliot for still loving me after seeing what a control freak I become the moment I enter a kitchen.

 As a result of several days of proctoring tests (i.e. sitting around looking serious and doing nothing), this post is written in verse, because what the hell else was I going to do silently for 3 hours?

Quoth the Turkey

T’was the night ‘fore Thanksgiving and all through the town,
Not an expat was sober, yet the mood was quite down.
The vodka was placed in the freezers with care,
In the fear that no turkey soon would be there.

At Café du Livre, they were drenched in dismay,
Mourning the loss of excessive food day.
They grieved and they grumbled, they hemmed and they hawed,
In the hope to appeal to the Thanksgiving God.

Then from quite out of nowhere, our Youness did speak
Of a wondrous idea that made my whole week.
“We’ll have Thanksgiving here! Tomorrow!” he cried.
“I’ll make stuffing and turkey. It’s easy!” I lied.

In the morning I woke with the memory of fun
And I thought to myself “Dear God, what have I done?”
I can’t cook, I can’t roast, I can’t fry, I can’t scramble
Boy, making me chef was one hell of a gamble.

But I went nonetheless and was met with surprise
When I found there a restaurant’s worth of supplies.
And the littlest turkey was trussed up quite pretty,
Still warm from its slaughter that morn in the city.

So we snipped and we seasoned and salted the breast
And felt pleased when we saw how nicely ‘twas dressed
In the oven we crammed it, which made me quite queasy,
And I thought to myself: “This will not be easy.”

Next came the biscuits, best part of the meal.
Though searching for cornmeal had been an ordeal.
In the bowl went the flour, the cornmeal and powder,
“Please stop taking photos!” I began to cry louder.



With a spoon I did mix them and then with my hands
Forgetting, of course to first find some clean pans.
My hands they were freezing, my fingers were white
And I wished oh I wished I were done for the night.

I kneaded and flattened and shaped them in spite
Of forgetting what oven temperature’s right.
In the oven they’d rise not more than an inch
But the people were hungry, they’d do in a pinch.

After that came the stuffing, not placed in the bird,
As I read through the steps they hung on every word:
“On eggs and on onion, on sausage, on pepper,
On apple…no, bacon. That sounds so much better.



The food stuffs we’ll sprinkle on mountains of bread,
And we’ll mix and mash to make stuffing,” I said.
In the oven we thrust it, t’was getting quite crowded
With the stuffing and turkey in tin foil shrouded.

Potatoes we peeled them and tried not to linger
As I sharply removed the tip of my ring finger.
We tossed them in water all bubbling and hot
And when tender we mashed them right there in the pot.

I wanted so badly to have just one taste
Of that deliciously starchy white peppery paste.
And yet each time I tried someone slapped me away,
Even though I was the chef and I’d waited all day.



The beans they were sizzling in garlic and butter
When the staff looked at me as if I were a nutter.
Their patience with amateurs starting to fade,
I tried harder and harder to stay out of their way.

With the butter and flour and juice from the turkey,
Came a breathtaking sauce, so dark tan and murky.
We stirred and we stirred and we seasoned it bravely,
And fashioned a stunningly tasty brown gravy.



Finally the food it was ready for eating
But instead of enjoying, they stood ‘round it bleating
About plating and patterns and napkins and spoons
As I glowered there hungrily plotting their doom.

The plating was pretty, too complex for me
All neatly aligned and all drenched in gravy.
The sumptuous feast I’d constructed myself,
It flew and it flew and it flew off the shelf.



The food was all gone in 15 minutes flat
And we grinned at each other all feeling quite fat.
But something felt missing, we all wondered why…
Low and behold we’d forgotten the pie!

“No matter,” we thought, for the food was divine.
For dessert we’ll just have a glass of good wine.
‘Round the table we’ll chat and we’ll giggle and munch
 And savour our time with this marvelous bunch.



 “Shit, it’s almost 6.30!” I said, being rude,
As I yelled at myself with a mouthful of food.
I’ll be late for a class I don’t wish to attend.
So I left as my stomach began to distend.

My class was, of course, not the best I had mustered,
As the wine and the beer had left me quite flustered.
I preached ‘bout Thanksgiving, our culture and food
And I asked of my students what thanks they’d accrued.

Some spoke of their families, their friends or their lover
Some were thankful for grades in one class or another.
“I’m thankful for gorgeous English teachers” one said, as I blushed.
“Let’s move on now” I said in a manner quite rushed.

So we grammered and Englished right into the night,
And their vocab did soar to a marvelous height.
But just as my voice was starting to get croaky
The bell rang and I left to go sing karaoke.

And thus ends the tale of the foremost Thanksgiving
Where through recipe and ritual I began sieving,
For a Thanksgiving feast of my own rendition.
Happy Turkey Day to all. Make your own new tradition!


Saturday, 14 December 2013

Marrakech International Film Festival

The Marrakech International Film Festival is an annual festival showcasing films from around the globe. It takes place in a number of cinemas and converted government buildings around the city, including but not limited to:

Palais des Congrès...


and Cinéma le Colisée...


the two places closest to my house. Movies are free to the public, attracting an interesting array of people.The festival floods the city with Hollywood and Bollywood actors alike, making it almost impossible to leave the house without having a camera shoved in your face. Below are the synopses and reviews of some of my favourite and least favourite movies from the festivals. 

Waltz for Monica – Swedish


In the early 60’s Monica, a young, rebellious girl from small town Sweden is determined to make it as a singer in the vibrant jazz clubs of Stockholm and New York. She embarks on a singing career of her dreams, rubbing shoulders with Miles Davis, Ella Fitzgerald and Bill Evans. But behind all the glamour, Monica struggles to face the dark side of success.

Monica Zetterlund – the Swedish Marilyn Monroe – was a profoundly unlikeable character (not the fault of the actress considering she’s based on a real person), selfish, self indulgent, hypocritical and generally horrible to everyone around her. Her tragic story feels so much less tragic because you just can’t bring yourself to feel sorry for her. However, Monica’s distasteful personality made the supporting characters all so much more sympathetic. Her rigidly disapproving father would be one-sided if it weren’t clear how deeply he loves his tragically understanding, neglected granddaughter. Her many love interests are all relatively interesting, profoundly odd characters that play a specific role in her life but still feel like real people rather than caricatures.

Her triumphs are made beautiful and even tear inducing not because of her reactions, but rather how they affect the lives of her friends and family (the people we actually like).

However much I may have disliked Monica (quite a lot), I have only praises for her voice and the soundtrack of the film. The music was utterly wonderful and left me with a strong desire to learn Swedish, just so I could sing along.

Fever – Moroccan / French


Let me start off my opinion of this movie with a disclaimer: It is entirely possible that I’m not worldly or intellectual enough to understand this movie. Given that it was still in the running for best picture when I saw it, it is possible, even likely, that there are people who recognize Fever for the masterpiece that it very well may be. However, I am not one of those people, and I would suspect, that neither were any of the people in the audience with me.

Fever is the story of Benjamin, a chain smoking, graffiting French delinquent who, when his mother is sent to prison, is given the choice of foster care or living with a father he’s never met. He chooses his Moroccan father and chaos ensues.

The cinematography was…different. I don’t necessarily mean that in a bad way. There were some interesting shots, from angles that I’m not accustomed to seeing, a lot of shakiness. While some would have made stunning stills, the overall effect was dizzying and amateurish. Or perhaps I’m being insensitive and the shakiness of the camera was a direct effect of a much lower budget than I’m used to.

The story line was equally confusing. The themes that were touched on, in rough order, include:

  1. Foster care
  2. Sex outside of marriage
  3. Ethnic conflict
  4. Generation gap
  5. Mental health
  6. Physical health
  7. Gender and sexuality
  8. Suicide
  9. Murder


Several of the themes, which were primarily illustrated by the supporting characters’ relationships with Benjamin could have made for interesting studies of human dysfunction had they been fully realised. We are left feeling confused and wondering if the point of the movie was simply to document a few days in the lives of some very strange people and if there was any deeper meaning at all.

That’s not to say that there weren’t good moments. I thoroughly enjoyed the beautifully delusional poetry of the lake hobo and there was a very entertaining moment between the family members where Benjamin cleverly riffs on cultural differences vis a vis pizza toppings. But those moments were few and far between, and ultimately the movie was disjointed and bizarre.

However, I will give you that the end was chilling, unexpected and ultimately the only logical way it could have ended.

2 women on the road – Moroccan



Two women on the road is the somewhat entertaining story of Amina, a young trophy wife on her way up to Tetouan to bribe a judge to liberate her hash smuggling husband from jail. On the drive north, her car breaks down and she meets Lalla Rahma, a very practical and somewhat senile old woman who seems to spontaneously decide to follow Amina north to find out whether her son has survived his attempt to cross the Straits.

The movie was apparently intended as a Moroccan take on the classic American road movie. It has all the right aspects: 2 conflicting personalities thrust together out of circumstance become unlikely friends as they overcome amusing obstacles.

The characters were pretty standard, Amina is young, pretty and vain. She wears inappropriately tight revealing clothes at every point in the film. I’ll admit I probably spent more time than I should have staring at her butt. Lalla Rahma is, of course, the polar opposite: old, [polite synonym for fat], and covered from head to toe in seemingly endless layers of fabric. Conservative and disapproving to Amina’s frivolity and flashiness, Lalla Rahma was all big, disbelieving eyes and huffily gathering up her never-ending skirts, the Moroccan child of Charlie Chaplin and Lucille Ball.

There were funny moments (at least the Arabic speaking audience seemed to think so, they spoke so quickly that I rarely had the chance to read all of the French subtitles, which left me with a gist of the meaning, but still feeling a little out of the loop), but it wasn’t a particularly funny movie. It tried so hard to be funny that it ended up being a little sad and at times a touch morbid. Perhaps the Moroccan sense of humour just isn’t compatible with such an American story line.

How I Live Now – British / American


Daisy, a Hot Topic patronizing American teenager has been inexplicably sent to stay with oddball relatives in the English countryside on the eve of World War 3. Initially withdrawn and alienated, she begins to warm up to her charming surroundings, even falling in love. As the UK falls into a violent, chaotic military state, Daisy finds herself hiding and fighting to survive.

I must say, despite how lazy it makes me feel, it was utterly refreshing to watch a movie in English (my first since I moved to Morocco), which may have contributed to my enjoyment of this movie over others.

The acting was excellent as was the sound track. I had trouble relating to Daisy, in all her insecurity, borderline OCD and sudden burst of romanticism, but that’s probably because I’m no longer a 16 year old girl. Her cousins were lovely and welcoming and wonderfully weird and I wish they were my family.

A couple of distracting plot holes; including the voices in Daisy’s head, why Eddie was telepathic (or was he just really in tune with her?), what the political conflict that led to WW3 was and why the hell Daisy’s father would have sent her, against her will, into such a politically charged potentially fatal situation, but I assume these are explained in the book it was adapted from [yes, Eliot, I ended a sentence with a preposition]. But my main issue was that the love interest previously mentioned, the boy that she flung herself into a whirlwind romance with, the boy that she willingly gave herself to (think biblically, people) WAS HER COUSIN. HER FIRST COUSIN. Granted he was cute, but they’re blood relatives. Close blood relatives. So very very icky. Needless to say, the gross out factor detracted a bit from my sympathy for their tragic love. Yuck.

One last irritation, which applies to all of the movies, but to this one in particular, is how incredibly obnoxious the other movie goers were. They acted like complete children any time there was physical affection of any kind. They clapped, cheered and whistled inappropriately during tense, emotional or romantic moments. I spent more time fighting the urge to stand up and yell “shut the fuck up” than I did actually enjoying the movie.

Thanks for reading, and here's a gratuitous shot of how beautifully warm Marrakech is in December. I guess you never really appreciate something until you're about to leave it.